He is one of our favored Sires here at Kambell Kennels and is available for Stud Services!
|To see Tank’s Documents, please click here!|
Updated pics of Tank taken September 2017
He is now 10 years old
Vladimer was our very first male bullmastiff and one of our most requested stud dogs. He unfortunately is no longer with us. He passed away in 2016 and will be forever missed.
|To see Vladimer’s documents, please click here!|
This contract is between Kampbell Kennels
Address and Phone _________________________________
Stud services are available through Kampbell Kennels Bullmastiffs. Our fee is 1200.00 plus cost of semen collection and shipping or for boarding fees. There is a deposit of 400.00 which must be made prior to the actual breeding. If the stud fee is to paid, the balance must be paid in full prior to the puppies reaching 3 weeks of age. If pick of the litter is the method of payment, deposit will be refunded when the pick is made and taken. Any expenses that may have occurred during the actual time of breeding by Kampbell Kennels will be deducted from this deposit. For example, Emergency Vet Bill,s Artificial Insemination fees (if needed) and any other expenses above the normal cost of boarding. If the female is kept at Kampbell Kennels, normal boarding fees will apply in the amount of 13.00 a day which is due at the time the female is picked up from the kennel. It is the bitch’s owners responsbility to provide all food and special bedding that the dog may require while away from home.
Females kept at Kampbell Kennels will be housed in our kennel area which will provide the dog with its own kennel area (air conditioned in summer and heated in the winter) with a 25 foot run. Dogs will be fed twice daily and walked if requested by the owner. The said dogs will have the opportunity to breed 3 times preferably every other day, unless other arrangements have been made. The bitch’s owner must provide to KampbellKennels proof of current immunizations, is taking heart worm medication and must have been seen by a vet within the last 3 months to document that the dog is in good health and is capable of breeding. Name and phone number of bitch’s vet must be provided if any questions or concerns should arise concerning her health while being boarded.
If pregnancy does not occur, the bitch’s owner’s must provide documentation from a vet that she is not pregnant. A refund will be made, except for 200.00 for the time that was involved in caring for and assisting with the actual breeding.
Once the stud fee is paid in full or pick of the litter delivered, bitch’s owner will then be provided with the Sire’s AKC number for proper registration of the litter with AKC.
Kampbell Kennels Bitch’s Owner
Any deviations in fees or payment arrangements must be agreed upon by both parties and initialed and signed on both copies of the contract.
The day has finally arrived when you can bring home that cute bundle of eight week old puppy. A nice square head, broad muzzle and underjaw, good stop, dark mask, slight wrinkle, well arched feet, tail reaching to the hocks, a good bite, bluish/grey eyes and those lovely correct ears, are all the qualities of a good Bullmastiff puppy.
Red and fawn puppies may have darker markings on their chest and down their back and tail. This will fade as the puppy gets older.
You may see amongst the litter other traits such as white markings, crank or short tails, long or narrow snipey muzzles or dome shaped heads. The only white that is permisible is a small white mark on the chest. These features don’t stop the Bullmastiff from being a good guard dog or family pet, they are just unsuitable for breeding or showing. If the bite is under at 8 weeks, the chances are that it will finish up fairly undershot. The standard requires that the mouth be, when fully mature, level to slightly undershot
Suddenly within the next few weeks everything starts to change –
Teeth & ears: at about 10 weeks of age teething commences and the ears that were sitting perfectly are now flying away from the head or folding back. Massaging the ears forward, giving the puppy large (uncut) marrowbones to chew on, or taping the ears in the correct position all help. This changing process can last until the puppy is approximately nine months. Maintaining the ears folding over helps to give the head the square appearance.
Eyes: from this early age (8 – 10 weeks) the eyes also commence to change from the bluish/grey to finish up dark brown or hazel.
Feet: this is a common problem with young puppies – down on pastern and splayfeet. Too much bounding around, overweight, jumping up and down stairs or in and out of the car, spending too much time on shiny surfaces (i.e. linoleum or smooth concrete), can all attribute to this. Correction can be aided by cutting back on food intake, calcium increased, raising off the ground of food and water bowls and by placing small rough stones (screenings) in kennel runs. Regular trimming of the nails may be necessary during the early months.
Head & body: while all these changes are happening, the head and body are also changing. Suddenly you have a leggy, pin headed, ugly duckling on your hands; don’t despair. When you see other Bullmastiffs around the same age as your one or its litter mates, don’t compare. All Bullmastiffs are individuals and grow and change at different stages. If you don’t like your puppy at 8 – 9 months, remember what it was like at 8 weeks and “hang in there” until it is 14 – 16 months. Maturity cannot be rushed along by trying to change your leggy youngster into a solid dog by fattening them up to fill them out, this will only damage the bones. Some Bullmastiffs can be mature by 14 months whilst others not until 2 1/2 – 3 years of age. Give the dog time and all body parts will equal out and you will end up with a very nice, square headed, compact bodied Bullmastiff.
Even if your Bullmastiff is not for the show ring, remember your little puppy will grow very fast and if training is not done, before you know it you will have a large dog that does what it wants. Training can begin once your puppy has settled in. The most effective form of training is in small time frames, 2 – 5 minutes at a time, once or twice a day. Whilst still a youngster don’t take your puppy for any walks longer than 10 – 15 minutes. Once inoculations have been completed, socialize your puppy, not necessarily in the showing environment, just down to the local shops or market before the crowds arrive. The first few months makes all the difference. Be sure to have a kennel that your puppy can be confined in if need be.
By Barbara Wright
Your puppy will need lots of gentle attention when you first introduce it to its new surroundings as it will be in a completely new environment to what it is used to and will be missing its mother and siblings.
If you have another dog, ensure your puppy is protected from any rough play as this can frighten your puppy as well as put it in danger of injury. It is important that you are able to secure your puppy away from other dogs when not being supervised as adult dog especially, if they are large and/or heavier than your puppy, can cause irreparable damage to young and growing bones and joints if they fall or jump on them.
Your puppy should have an area that is ‘theirs’. Whether this be a small run, a laundry or a crate, this area should be a safe zone for your puppy to be able to retreat when necessary and to place them away if necessary.
If you have young children, make sure they are supervised and gentle with your new puppy. Please discourage young children from picking up your puppy. A Bullmastiff is quite heavy, even at eight weeks of age, and dropping a puppy again can cause irreparable damage to growing joints and bones.
Young puppies cannot maintain body temperature as well as adult dogs. Your puppy will require a clean, warm, draught-free place to sleep. A pup should be housed in a placed that allows for frequent interaction with the human members of the household.
You will need a heavy container for water, as large puppies have a habit of knocking over their water containers. Make sure it is not too tall and skinny (such as the galvanized cleaning buckets often used for older dogs) tat may allow a puppy to get caught upside down and drown.
Please ensure that your pup always has access to clean water at all times that is changed daily.
“Hip Dysplasia is not entirely an hereditary disease and environmental factors such as feeding, exercise and, even, the position the young dog is made to sit in, may be responsible for 60% of the occurrence of the hip dysplasia changes seen on X-Ray. The disease has only a moderate hereditability of 30 to 45%”.
To help reduce the risk of hip dysplasia, I strongly suggest that you adhere to the following guidelines:-
NEVER allow your puppy to jump in or out of the car, dog trailer, lounge, bed, or any place higher than it’s trampoline bed. (At least until the puppy is 18 months of age).
NEVER allow your puppy to jump off the back of a Ute, from the back of a 4WD or any other high obstacle AT ANY AGE..EVER.
NEVER over feed your puppy. Bullmastiffs ADORE food, but a large heavy boned pup that is also over weight puts a lot of unnecessary stress on joints, bones and ligaments that could lead t disaster.
NEVER over-dose on calcium and vitamins. Good quality commercial foods provide a balanced diet and don’t require any additional supplements. If you feel you dog requires any additional additives to their diet, please contact us for advice FIRST.
TRY to feed your dogs’ whole days dinner in two or three smaller portions. Better to feed smaller amounts more often than in one large sitting. Puppies MUST be fed at least twice a day.
NEVER over exercise your puppy. Let your puppy exercise itself. For at least the first 12 months of its life. Make sure your puppy has some enforced resting times.
NEVER allow bigger or older dogs to jump on your puppy or rough play with them. Supervise at all times and keep the older dog on a restraint.
NEVER allow young children to pick up your puppy.
ALWAYS pick your pup up with one hand under its chest and the other supporting its bottom. Never allow you pup to jump out of your hands.
STAIRS are a concern for your puppy. Please ensure you have barricaded any stairs that you have so that your puppy does not become at risk from falling down them.
Please consult your breeder or Vet with any concerns you have regarding your puppy and it’s care. They should be willing and grateful that you are taking the correct measures to ensure that you have a happy healthy Bullmastiff.
By Nikki Marshall
Providing the proper balance of exercise. Young Bull mastiffs need enough exercise to keep them lean and healthy, but not so much that their soft growing bones, joints, and ligaments become over-stressed and damaged. Adult Bull mastiffs need more exercise to keep them in shape, but not in hot or humid weather for fear of overheating. The proper amount of exercise can be difficult to regulate in giant breeds Since you have to minimize their exercise, young Bull mastiffs can be very rambunctious. They will romp with uncoordinated gawkiness all over your house. You need to substitute extra quantities of companionship and supervision. Otherwise, left alone, young Bull mastiffs become bored and destructive — and their powerful jaws can literally destroy your living room.
Providing enough socialization. Most Bull mastiffs have protective instincts toward strangers. They need extensive exposure to friendly people so they learn to recognize the normal behaviors of “good guys.” Then they can recognize the difference when someone acts abnormally. Without careful socialization, they may be suspicious of everyone, which could lead to biting. Some Bull mastiffs go in the opposite direction — without enough socialization, they become fearful of strangers, which can lead to defensive biting.
Animal aggression. Many Bull mastiffs will not tolerate another dog of the same sex, and some won’t tolerate the opposite sex either. Some Bull mastiffs have strong instincts to chase and seize cats and other fleeing creatures. If anything goes wrong in the breeding, socializing, training, handling, or management of this breed, it is capable of seriously injuring or killing other animals.
The strong temperament. Bull mastiffs are not Golden Retrievers. They have an independent mind of their own and are not pushovers to raise and train. Many Bull mastiffs are willful, obstinate, and dominant (they want to be the boss) and will make you prove that you can make them do things. You must show them, through absolute consistency, that you mean what you say.
The Bullmastiff is courageous, loyal, calm, and loving with those it knows. It has a very strong protective instinct and will defend its owners against anything it perceives as a threat. However, it does not normally attack to protect. Instead, it knocks the intruder over with its massive size and pins them to the ground, or, will simply stand in front of the stranger/intruder and refuse to let them pass. Bullmastiffs become intensely attached to their families and do best when they can live inside with them. Their protective instinct combined with their great size and natural wariness of strangers means that early socialization is a must. The Bullmastiff may or may not get along well with other dogs. Occasionally, females in heat will also not get along with other females. The Bullmastiff gets along well with children and is very loving towards them. Parental supervision must be maintained when they are with children; they may knock smaller children down accidentally because of their large size.
Shedding. Bull mastiffs shed more than you might think. Their short, coarse hairs come off on your hands when you pet them, and stick tenaciously to your carpeting, upholstery, and clothing.
Bull mastiff sounds. Because of the short face, Bull mastiffs snort, grunt, and snore loudly. The sounds are endearing to some people; nerve-wracking to others.
Slobbering. Most people are not prepared for how much Bull mastiffs slobber and drool, especially after eating or drinking. When they shake their heads, you will be toweling saliva and slime off your clothes, furniture, and walls.
Gassiness (flatulence) that can send you running for cover. Fortunately, Bull mastiffs who are fed a natural diet of real meat and other fresh foods have much less trouble with gassiness.
Serious health problems. The lifespan of a Bull mastiff is short and an alarming number are crippled by bone and joint diseases and/or succumb to cancer in middle age.
Legal liabilities. Bull mastiffs may be targeted for “banning” in certain areas, or refusal of homeowner insurance policies. Your friends and neighbors may be uncomfortable around this breed. In this day and age, the legal liabilities of owning any breed that looks intimidating and has a history as a guard dog should be seriously considered. People are quicker to sue if such a dog does anything even remotely questionable.
The Bull mastiff is very powerfully built, but not cumbersome, with a broad wrinkled head and fairly short, square, dark muzzle (about 1/3 the length of the whole head). The nose is black with large nostrils. The dark hazel, medium-sized eyes should have an alert, intelligent expression. The v-shaped wide-set ears are pendant and dark colored. The teeth should meet in a level or slightly undershot bite. The short back is straight and level between the withers and the loin. The tapering tail is set high and reaches to the hocks. The short, slightly rough coat comes in brindle, fawn, or red, often with black markings on the head.
Height: Dogs 25-27 inches (63-69 cm) Bitches 24-27 inches (61-66cm)
Weight: Dogs 110-133 pounds (50-60kg) Bitches 100-120 pounds (45-54kg)
Bull mastiffs will do okay in an apartment if it is sufficiently exercised. It is relatively inactive indoors and a small yard will do. They can not tolerate extremes of temperatures.
These dogs tend to be lazy so provide regular, moderate exercise. Be sure to exercise and not overfeed him, as he tends to put on weight. They need to be taken for a long daily walk.
Under 10 years
4-13 puppies with average being 8
The short-haired, slightly rough coat is easy to groom. Comb and brush with a firm bristle brush, and shampoo only when necessary. There is little shedding with this breed. Check the feet regularly because they carry a lot of weight, and trim the nails.
The Bull mastiff was obtained by crossing 60% Mastiffs with 40% Bulldogs in the country of England. Mastiff Bulldog types can be found in records as early back as 1795. In 1924 Bull mastiffs began to be judged. Three generations of breeding of Bull mastiffs was required for Bull mastiffs to be registered as purebred. The Bull mastiff was used as a gamekeeper’s dog to track down, tackle and hold poachers. The dogs were fierce and threatening, but were trained not to bite the intruders. When the need for gamekeeper’s dogs decreased, the dark brindle dogs so good for night camouflage gave way in popularity to the lighter fawn coloration. It has been prized as a hunting guard, as an aid in army and police work, and is used as a watchdog by the Diamond Society of South Africa. Today’s Bull mastiff is a reliable family companion and guardian. It enjoys living with the family, with whom it comforts itself well.
Mastiff, AKC Working
Continental Kennel Club, Federation Cynologique International, American Kennel Club, Kennel Club of Great Britain, Canadian Kennel Club, Australian National Kennel Club, National Kennel Club, New Zealand Kennel Club, American Pet Registry Inc., American Canine Registry